dinner

Pan-Seared Steak Method

Marianne Sundquist · May 1, 2023 · Leave a Comment

Even though our grills might be covered for the season, we can still make mouth-watering, perfectly cooked and seasoned steaks indoors. Today, I am going to walk you through my favorite way to cook a steak indoors. I first learned to properly cook a steak when cooking at The Peninsula Hotel in Chicago under the tutelage of Chef Graham Elliot. We were a small team of four cooks working five nights a week in the hotel’s fine dining restaurant inside the workings of a large hotel kitchen. Our open kitchen was small, with a dining bar allowing guests a front-row seat to watch us cook. We each worked a station on our own (garde manger, hot apps, butcher, and saucier) for three months, after which time we would rotate around to another station. When working as the butcher, not only was it our responsibility to break down fish and other cuts of meat on the menu, during service we cooked every piece of meat that left the kitchen, from 3-course to 21-course tasting menus per guest. To get the job done we had a four-gas burner range and a small convection oven which we kept at 500 F. the entire night. There was no grill or wood-burning oven, but I soon learned that all I needed was right in front of me: a large soup spoon (never tongs), a few well-seasoned cast iron pans, salt, my trust pepper grinder, a high smoke point oil, butter, and aromatics.

In this recipe you’ll notice that the aromatics I use are lemon, cilantro stems, jalapeno and garlic. This is just one out of an almost infinite number of variations you could try. Use the herbs and flavors that work for you. If you have sage or lavender in the garden, try it! Normally I tend to use thyme, rosemary, garlic and lemon. But on this night, I used what I had (leftover cilantro and jalapenos from taco night earlier in the week) and it ended up being one of the best pan-seared steaks I have ever made. The important thing to remember when choosing aromatics is that they need to be carefully dried after being washed. Natural juice from a lemon, lime, or piece of ginger isn’t a big deal, but you never want to add water to a pan with hot oil, as it will result in dangerous splattering and possible burns.

At first glance, this method might appear too easy for a whole recipe’s worth of attention, but let me assure you. It’s the best way of cooking a steak I’ve ever come across. Aside from maybe the Japanese three-crust method which I’ll save for grilling season since it requires an open flame. Because this recipe is mostly about a method or technique, I would especially recommend reading the entire method in advance.

And this technique isn’t only for steak. Over the years I have found myself using this method for fish, chicken, all kinds of red meats, even cauliflower steak. When it comes to beef though, choosing a good quality porterhouse, beef tenderloin, filet mignon, t-bone, strip or rump steak are good choices.

Pan-Seared Steak Method

HDT Pan Seared Steak - plated and ready to serve

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This method will teach you how to cook a mouth-watering pan-seared steak indoors in a cast iron pan. When I don’t have a grill, this is hands down my favorite technique for cooking a well-seasoned steak.

Author: Marianne Sundquist
Prep Time: 15 mins
Cook Time: 15 mins
Total Time: 30 minutes
Yield: 2 servings
Category: Dinner
Method: sear
Cuisine: American

Ingredients

1 large steak, 1-1 1/2 inch thick
salt and pepper
1/2 t. neutral oil with a high smoke point (grapeseed, avocado, vegetable, sunflower)
2 T. butter
1/2 lemon, sliced
1 small handful of cilantro stems
2 jalapenos, sliced
3 garlic cloves, sliced

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Instructions

First, dry the steak with a paper towel and let it come to room temperature so it can cook evenly and retain its juices. This will take anywhere from 10-30 minutes depending on the temperature of your kitchen as well as the size of the steak.

Now, season the steak generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Place a cast iron or other heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. When you can see the oil ripple as you gently tip the pan to one side, you know the pan is hot enough (do not put the steak into a cold pan). Gently place the steak in the pan and let it sear where it is (resisting the temptation to move it around) for around 3 minutes. If you want to help it along, carefully press down on the steak with the back of a spoon to create more pressure as it’s searing which will create even more caramelization in the flavor-filled crust. Turn the steak over and repeat this process so both sides get a good sear.

HDT Pan Seared Steak - prep and ingredients — prep ingredients

At this point, turn the heat to medium and add the butter, lemon, cilantro stems, jalapeno, and garlic. With your spoon, move the steak toward the top of the pan and move the aromatics to the side or on top of the steak. Carefully tip the pan towards you while it’s still over the heat, being careful no butter spills out, and spoon the sizzling butter over the steak, again and again, to finish cooking the steak. This will probably take anywhere from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, depending on the thickness of the steak and how well done you prefer it to be cooked.

You can certainly take the temperature of the steak with a thermometer to find your perfect cook (rare: 125 F. | medium-rare: 130-135 F. | medium: 135-140 F. | medium-well: 140-150 F. | well: 155 F.) by inserting the thermometer into the thickest part of the steak. But I prefer and recommend the poke-with-your-finger method. Not only does it teach you to just know when a steak is done, but I find it to be more accurate during the fast pace reality of cooking. You feel it with your finger, take it off at the perfect time, and boom it’s done and ready for resting.

The Finger Test

The best way I have found to learn the poke method is to use your very own hand as a guide. The first step is to touch your ring finger to your thumb and turn your hand so the palm is facing you. If you press on your hand just below your thumb this will mimic what it feels like when you poke a well-done steak. Move your finger slightly to the left around your thumb and you will feel what a medium-well steak feels like. Keep working your way around your thumb and you will eventually reach what a rare steak feels like. Use this method as long as you need to learn and then the day will come when you’ll know everything you need to know with a single poke of your finger.

Once the steak is cooked to your preferred temperature, transfer the steak and all the aromatics to a shallow bowl (so as not to lose any of the juices) and loosely cover it with foil for 5-10 minutes before serving so the inside juices can redistribute and don’t just spill out once the steak is cut with a knife.

Cochinita Pibil Chile Tacos

Marianne Sundquist · March 12, 2023 · Leave a Comment

This is a taco recipe that comes from our constant craving for the unequivocal Cochinita Pibil sandwich and our never-ending love for tacos. Cochinita Pibil is a traditional slow-roasted pork dish from the Yucatán Peninsula. Its genius lies in the marinade highs and lows; earthy achiote paste or annatto seed, bright orange and/or grapefruit juice, and rich and roasted flavors from roasted garlic. This taco recipe takes into account the spirit of the Pibil and travels to another galaxy in the form of tacos, made with New Mexican chile of course.

These can be made vegetarian using all beans, cauliflower or potatoes in place of the meat. The last time I made these I used elk, but any meat you have a hankering for will work. Pork shoulder is wonderful, it just takes more time than a vegetable, ground beef or a picked cooked rotisserie chicken.

This would be a fabulous dish to put in the slow cooker overnight. If you cook it this way, you could easily use dry beans instead of cooked ones. This “taco” filling is just as tasty over nachos, in burritos, over rice, and yes, even salad.

Everyday Southwest Stew

Marianne Sundquist · March 12, 2023 · Leave a Comment

It’s no accident that our kitchens have long been considered the heart of our homes. They can — and should — be a place of comfort and relaxation. With many of us doing a lot more cooking and a lot more staying at home, I’m fairly sure the heartbeat of our home kitchens has never been louder, or more important than now. Even as a chef with two small kids, I’ll be the first to admit it can be a challenge. But cooking for ourselves and our families can also be grounding and deeply satisfying.

With our high desert nights still cool and trips to the grocery store unpredictable, I can’t think of a better time to share one of my favorite recipes of all time — Everyday Southwest Stew.

You can follow this recipe exactly and you will undoubtedly notice smiles around your table, although I have to admit I never actually measure anything when making a stew, but offer the amounts more as a guide. You can also tinker with this recipe and make it work for the ingredients you have on hand. Who knows? Maybe your new version will become a family heirloom, passed to children, grandchildren, and neighbors, a culinary snapshot from this historic moment in time.

Here’s the secret. You don’t have to go to the store for the perfect ingredient, because there are no specific ingredients that are going to make or break this stew. The only requirement is that you trust yourself and let the rest go. I’m considering this a time of invention and innovation in our home kitchens. To start, let’s take a big-picture look at this simple recipe which allows for almost endless variations:

FAT

First, start with a big, heavy-bottomed pot. Add a splash of oil or other fat to the pan. This is a great way to use bacon fat (aka bacon butter) leftover from breakfast. In this recipe, I render bacon, remove it when it’s crispy and use the leftover fat to sear the meat. You could also use ghee. The only oil I would recommend not using is extra virgin olive oil, which is best used for salads and finishing dishes.

MEAT

Once the pan is hot, sear the meat. My favorite stew meat is local buffalo, but you could use almost any meat you have on hand; beef shoulder (aka chuck), beef round, ground beef, pork shoulder, pork tenderloin, sausage, boneless chicken breasts or thighs, and even bone-in chicken if you’re careful to remove the bones before adding the meat back to the pot after cooking. You could also leave out the meat altogether, use beans or grains instead, and skip to the next step.

MIREPOIX

Now it’s time to add the flavor bomb veggies, roots, and spices that are going to add loads of flavor to your stew, also referred to as mirepoix (meer-pwaa). What does this mean? This is where you choose what direction you want your stew adventure to go. In France, the classic mirepoix is a combination of celery, carrots, and onion. In Italy, cooks will often start with the French mirepoix and add parsley and garlic. Chinese mirepoix consists of green onions, ginger and garlic. If you have a hankering for Thai, try a combo of ginger, lemongrass, basil, and lime zest or leaves. In my house, we often go the Indian route and in addition to the carrots, celery and onion, add red chile, fresh ginger and turmeric, and curry powder or paste. This is the time to look around in your fridge, pantry or produce section of the market and get creative. What looks good, sounds good, and what do you have access to? Do you have any fire-roasted New Mexican chiles hiding in the freezer? I can promise you there has never been a better time to find them. In this recipe, I use herbes de provence because even though the blend originates in the southeastern region of France, it often includes New Mexico herbs like lavender, thyme, and oregano.

DEGLAZE

After your mirepoix has been hanging out in your pot for a while, now is the time to deglaze! This means add a bit of liquid to get all the caramelly goodness off the bottom of the pot and into the stew. You could add a few glugs of wine. You could add a can of coconut milk or some crushed tomatoes or broth. Scrape the pot with a wooden spoon.

HEFTY VEGETABLES & LIQUID

Now add your hefty vegetables to add texture and substance to the strew. You can add things like potato, cabbage, celery root, beet, squash, fennel, mushroom, radish, turnip, collard greens, daikon, etc. Then add more liquid to cover. This could be more broth or even water.

FINAL SEASONING & DELICATE GREENS

Depending on the meat and/or vegetables you’re using, you will want to simmer over low heat until everything is tender. This could be 40 minutes or four hours. Check the seasoning and see if you want to add salt, pepper, or other spices. For instance, sometimes when I go the Thai route, this is when I add juice from a lime or a splash of fish sauce. Just a bit to brighten it up. This is where tasting and trusting will get you where you want to go. Once everything is cooked and tender, now is the time to add greens and green vegetables. I like to add greens a few minutes (but not more) before ladling them into bowls. You can add greens like spinach, kale, broccoli, peas, rapini, chard, asparagus, etc.

My hope is that by making this stew, you’ll create new scent memories of lavender and roasted chiles.

Simple Oven Roasted Whole Chicken

Marianne Sundquist · March 4, 2023 · Leave a Comment

I know that sometimes cooking a whole chicken can feel less convenient than just picking up chicken breasts at the store, but stick with me while I try to convince you it’s worth the little bit of extra effort and time.

This is the first step in making many meals out of a whole chicken. First comes roasting day which is a special meal in itself. The crackling chicken comes out of the oven making your entire house smell like Thanksgiving. I like to make a whole chicken on Sunday or Monday getting our weekly meals off to a great start. The next day I pick any leftover meat for topping on salads or tacos, before throwing all the bones into a pot with carrots, onion, celery, herbs, and cold water. I bring it to a gentle simmer for 30 minutes and strain. Voila, chicken broth!

Now I go through the strained bones again, and while they are still warm but cool enough to touch, I pick more meat off the bones to make a soup. When you chill the strained broth, the chicken fat will naturally rise and solidify on top of the stock. You can skim this off with a spoon and use this for sauteing potatoes or veggies.

This utilization of the whole chicken is no small thing. When we roast a whole chicken it easily feeds us for 3-5 meals by doing the roasted chicken-picked chicken-some kind of chicken soup method. It makes meal planning easy for the week–Roasted chicken! Tacos! Soup! It’s also incredibly cost-effective. Let’s say I go to the farmers market or store and pay anywhere from $15-$30 for the whole chicken depending on the size and if it’s organic, pastured, etc. Even though we will add other ingredients to our meals, it’s still the star of the show.

Let’s look at it conservatively though and say my family of four gets only three meals out of it (we always get more if we make soup) and we pay $25 for the chicken. That comes to about $2.00 per meal worth of chicken and/or broth. Have I convinced you yet?

There are a million delicious recipes out there for roasted chicken. After many years of trying all kinds of methods, I found that the most simple method–dry cooking, is my favorite. It’s also the easiest. I came to this conclusion one night when I had run out of time for anything else aside from throwing the chicken in the oven as fast as humanly possible. Essentially it involves seasoning the chicken with just salt and pepper, resulting in a crispy skin and loads of flavor. Recently I fell in love with adding smoked paprika to this mix, but any dry spice or herbs will do.